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What to Do When Your Car is Underwater

What to Do When Your Car is Underwater

Ohio Flood, July '06

 

Hurricane Harvey hit Houston hard.

Tragically, reports say the hurricane claimed the lives of at least 60 people. It has also wrought devastation to countless communities and households.

It seems meaningless by comparison to the lives lost, but some reports say that one million cars were destroyed. Images of submerged vehicles quickly circulated the Twittersphere in Harvey’s wake. Floods of all kinds are merciless and heartbreaking, but especially so on a scale this massive.

I remember when I was growing up in New Jersey we had a torrential rainfall one year and the creek below our next-door neighbor’s house went from five feet wide and one foot deep to 100 yards wide and 10 feet deep, filling the neighbor’s basement with water. When the water receded, the change in the water’s velocity as it went through the house left behind a couple feet of silt in the basement. The appliances were ruined and it was a heckuva mess to clean just this one house. I can’t imagine a whole city being taken out like this.

Or a million cars.

Speaking of which, a dozen years ago I had a friend who dabbled in automobile auctions. He drove to Chicago or Minneapolis, bought a few cars at auction, towed them back north to repair them and finally sold them. On one occasion I was looking at cars with him and I saw a brand-new Jaguar. I had always thought it would be cool to have a Jaguar, and this one was only $100. The reason it was so cheap? It had been underwater. That car had seen its best days.

What to do if your vehicle floods

If you Google this issue, there are several websites with advice on dealing with cars caught in floodwaters. Here are a handful of tips extracted from this Popular Mechanics article.

  1. “How high’s the water, mama?” –Johnny Cash
    First, try to identify the high-water line. Usually there will be leaves, debris or silt that indicates how high up your vehicle the water reached, sort of like a bathtub ring. If the water line goes partway up the windshield, scrap the vehicle.
  2. Disconnect the battery ground strap before tinkering.
  3. Do not start the engine to see if it still runs. As the saying goes, oil and water do not mix. If there is water in the engine and transmission, starting the car will turn that oil/water mix into a gooey mess, thereby making it that much more difficult to clean.
  4. Get as much water out of the vehicle as quickly as you can as soon as you can. The best tool is a wet/dry shop vac. Soak up all you can with towels and run fans to dry the vehicle. Some people recommend baking soda or some other moisture-absorbent product to reduce the chance of mold taking over.
  5. Change the oil, drivetrain fluids and filters. If this is beyond the scope of your auto maintenance skills – yes, the tranny fluid can be a pain – have your car towed to a place where the work can be done for you. That’s why people like me pay for AAA coverage. It’s a lot cheaper than a new car. (Note: Don’t tow the vehicle with the wheels on the ground; that defeats the purpose. Instead, use a flat-bed truck.)

I hope this is helpful. And don’t forget – try to park on high ground.

CLEAN, PROTECTED POWER

CLEAN, PROTECTED POWER:

NEW PRODUCTS EXPAND OPPORTUNITY

To better target landscapers, contractors and other professionals who rely on small engines to make a living, AMSOIL Formula 4-Stroke® Synthetic Small Engine Oil (ASE) has been updated with a new name, label and packaging. Its formulation remains unchanged. Its current pricing remains in effect until April 1, at which time it will be updated to the pricing shown on the facing page. New labels will become available as current inventory is depleted. Launching March 6, new AMSOIL 20W-50 Zero-Turn Synthetic Hydrostatic Transmission Fluid (AHF) and AMSOIL 10W-40 Synthetic Small-Engine Oil (ASF) round out the new family of AMSOIL commercial-grade products.


Landscapers, contractors and other professionals are some of our best potential customers. They’re under tremendous pressure to complete jobs on time and up to standards, which spurs them to seek products that help them safely cut costs without affecting quality.

AMSOIL products offer the perfect solution. To drive that point home and help expand your opportunities, we’ve introduced a new line of commercialgrade products that help professionals cut costs through maximum equipment power and service life.

Power Play

On a job site, power equals efficiency. Few pieces of equipment in a landscaper’s arsenal embody this axiom like the zero-turn or stand-on mower. Next to their truck, it’s the most expensive piece of equipment they own. These workhorses allow crews to quickly produce professional-looking lawns and grounds through a combination of precision, power and speed.

Showing professionals how you can help them maintain power in their mowers and other equipment is one of your most important steps toward turning prospects into customers. Mowers and equipment that wear out and suffer power loss increase the amount of time and effort needed to complete jobs on time, forcing crews to work even harder and faster to stay on schedule.

Continuous operation in hot, dirty conditions can lead to deposits and wear that reduce engine compression, robbing the engine of power. Over time, mowers become less efficient, require more maintenance and eventually wear out altogether.

Clean, Protected Power

AMSOIL Synthetic Small-Engine Oil’s purpose-built formulation protects against wear, heat and carbon deposits, outperforming conventional oils. It’s designed to maintain power and promote long equipment life for professionals who depend on small engines to make a living. As shown to the right, it helps eliminate power-robbing deposits and wear in severe service, helping preserve power and boost profitability.

Fights Deposits & Preserves Power Better than Competitive Products

The piston and rings are virtually free of deposits
and wear after 500 hours of severe-service
testing in the Kawasaki* FX 730 V engine.


Specialized Transmission Fluid

Hydrostatic transmission performance is just as important to job-site efficiency as engine protection. Many professionals may be using a traditional motor oil in their hydrostatic transmissions instead of a purpose-built transmission fluid. Motor oils, however, may not deliver the smooth control and responsive power operators need to complete jobs quickly.


Oil pressure drives the wheel motors in most zero-turn mowers, meaning professionals must use a shear-stable fluid that resists viscosity loss and wear to ensure best performance. However, the intense heat – up to 230ºF – and shearing conditions common to hydrostatic transmissions can cause some fluids to thin, which reduces oil pressure. In addition, wear can open the tight tolerances inside the transmission, further reducing oil pressure. Operators soon notice one mower wheel moving more slowly than the other, which requires constant correction to mow in a straight line, or the mower slowing down altogether and becoming less responsive.

AMSOIL 20W-50 Zero-Turn Hydrostatic Transmission Fluid is specially built to solve this problem. Its synthetic, highzinc formula fights wear and resists thinning, helping maintain mower speed and responsiveness better than motor oils. It lasts up to 2X original equipment manufacturer (OEM) recommendations, helping save time and money.

 

 

 

DEALER ACTION PLAN

• Although the family of commercialgrade synthetic lubricants works great for homeowners, focus your time on landscapers, contractors and others who rely on their equipment to make a living. They’re more likely to buy a premium product.

• Sell the products’ ability to maintain equipment power and cut costs. These are the benefits professionals value most.

• Showing potential customers how they can cut costs 50 percent or more using SABER Professional Synthetic 2-Stroke Oil (see sidebar) is a great way to start a business conversation that may lead to sales of other products.

• When talking to potential customers, don’t lead with a technical discussion about the results of the new SABER Professional testing. First, create curiosity by asking good questions, such as, “Do you have any equipment that requires more maintenance than others?” Their answer may naturally lead you to show them how SABER Professional reduces carbon and maintains engine power.

• View the Dealer Sales Brief in the Dealer Zone (Training>Training Materials>Dealer Sales Briefs) for more selling strategies.


New Data Bulletins and Technical Study The Synthetic Small-Engine Oil and Zero-Turn Synthetic Hydrostatic Transmission Fluid data bulletins cover the products’ features, benefits and technical properties.

10W-30 and 10W-40 Synthetic Small-Engine Oil Data Bulletin Stock# Qty. U.S. Can. G2217 25 4.10 5.60

20W-50 Zero-Turn Synthetic Hydrostatic Transmission Fluid Data Bulletin Stock# Qty. U.S. Can. G3471 25 4.10 5.60

ECHO* 100:1 String Trimmer Technical Study Stock# Qty. U.S. Can. G3470 25 1.05 1.45

AMSOIL SABER® CUTS COSTS 50 PERCENT OR MORE

Using a leaner mix ratio than the 50:1 ratio typically recommended by manufacturers can translate into significant savings. For this strategy to work, however, the oil must protect modern, hot-running two-stroke equipment from the negative effects of heat, including wear and power-robbing exhaust-port deposits. Otherwise, equipment becomes difficult to start and lacks sufficient power to get the job done, frustrating workers. Eventually, equipment can quit running completely.

The new ECHO* 100:1 String Trimmer Technical Study (G3470) proves SABER Professional Synthetic 2-Stroke Oil’s (ATP) ability to deliver clean, protected power at a 100:1 mix ratio, allowing professionals to cut oil costs 50 percent or more compared to traditional 50:1 mix ratios. Use these results to show potential customers how SABER Professional can help them save while delivering better protection. View the digital version free at www.amsoil.com/performancetests.aspx.

DID YOU KNOW?

Handheld two-stroke equipment often has a spark arrestor screen on the muffler. As the name indicates, it prevents sparks from exiting the muffler and starting a wildfire. Hot exhaust gases flow through the screen, meaning oils with poor detergency can allow deposit formation. A plugged screen restricts airflow, reducing engine power and, eventually, causes it to quit altogether. In fact, heavy deposits on the screen from the string trimmer using ECHO Power Blend* XTended Life* Universal 2-Stroke Oil (above) prevented the trimmer from starting, requiring the screen to be replaced. SABER Professional, in contrast, virtually prevented screen deposits for clean, protected power.

How Engine Sludge Forms. And How To Prevent It.

How Engine Sludge Forms. And How To Prevent It.

It’s ugly. It’s sludge.

Sludge.

It’s a disgusting phenomenon. Even the word sounds gross, like the thing it’s describing. The word for this is onomatopoeia, a strange word that many of us learned in high school English class. Splash. Grunt. Whoosh. Swish. Hiss. Frumpy. You know what I’m talking about.

What is sludge?

Sludge is a black gelatinous goo that renders equipment inoperable if not dealt with. And long before the engine’s demise, sludge can foul its sensors and interfere with performance. Some mechanics call it the “black death.”

How does motor oil, which is fluid, become a semi-solid paste or gel inside an engine?

How engine sludge forms

Essentially the formation of engine sludge is the result of a series of chemical reactions. The lubricant itself degrades as it is exposed to oxygen and elevated temperatures. The higher the temperature, the more rapid the rate of degradation. The by-products of this reaction form highly reactive compounds that further degrade the lubricant. Their by-products then react with other contaminants, forming organic acids and high-molecular-weight polymeric products. These products further react, forming the insoluble product known more commonly as sludge. What begins as a thin film of lacquer or varnish deposits on hot or cold metal surfaces eventually bakes into an expensive mess.

Synthetic base oils help prevent sludge

Fortunately, sludge and varnish deposits are something we oil manufacturers have a measure of control over. Using thermally stable base oils reduces the rate of initial degradation (oxidation). A good example of this is the use of common synthetic base oils such as API Group III, PAOs and Esters. Anti-oxidant additives help reduce the rate of degradation as well. One of the most widely used is zinc dithiophosphate. Not only is it an excellent oxidation inhibitor, it is an outstanding anti-wear additive as well.

So do high-quality additives

We can further address many of the issues occurring after the initial oxidation stage. Additive chemistry such as detergents and dispersants are commonly part of motor oil formulation. They help promote the suspension of contaminants within the oil and keep them from agglomerating. Detergents, which are also alkaline in nature, assist in neutralizing acids that are generated in the sludge-building process. Anti-oxidant, dispersant and detergent additives are consumed during use. To achieve maximum life expectancy, use an oil with high concentrations of these additives.

Severe service invites sludge

Good lubricants minimize sludge and varnish issues. How the equipment is used also has a bearing on the likelihood of sludge or varnish issues.

Stop-and-go driving, frequent/long-term idling and operation in excessively hot or cold weather can all increase the likelihood of sludge and varnish, especially if using more volatile conventional oils.

Interestingly, most auto manufactures note in their owner’s manual that operation under any of the above conditions is considered severe service and requires more frequent oil changes. From a mechanical standpoint, things like adding too much oil to the oil sump, antifreeze contamination, excessive soot loading, excessive oil foaming, poor engine combustion efficiency, excessive blow-by and emission-control-system issues can all lead to the formation of sludge and varnish.

By practicing good maintenance and using properly formulated, premium synthetic lubricants, like AMSOIL synthetic motor oil, your vehicle won’t succumb to the “black death.”

LOOK UP MY VEHICE

 

All ADVANCED AMSOIL products are available NOW in Sioux Falls at your full time AMSOIL store: The Synthetic Warehouse at 4610 W. 12th St. Sioux Falls, SD 57107

Just 1 block west of I29! 605-274-2580

Why Motor Oil Deteriorates

Why Motor Oil Deteriorates

 

Like just about everything else, motor oil has a lifespan. Even the best oils eventually require you to change them. Historically, many motorists like the convenience of changing oil with the seasons, visiting the quick lube or pulling the ramps out of their garage each spring and fall.

Motor oil can deteriorate by becoming contaminated, the additives depleting over time or both.

How oil becomes contaminated

Base oils are the backbone of the finished lubricant that ends up in your engine. They can be conventional, synthetic or a combination thereof. They’re responsible for lubricating components, which reduces friction and protects against wear.

Base oils can lose their effectiveness over time due to a few different factors.

Oxidation – The interaction between oxygen molecules and motor oil molecules naturally leads to chemical breakdown. Just as oxygen causes a cut apple to brown or exposed metal to rust, it breaks down base oils and reduces motor oil’s effectiveness. Oxidation can lead to increased oil viscosity, which negatively affects energy efficiency. It also causes the formation of harmful deposits and sludge.

High heat – Today’s engines run hotter than ever before, with temperatures up to 235°F, and even higher if towing or hauling. The rate of oxidation for oil doubles for every 18°F increase in temperature.

Moisture – Your vehicle is also subjected to temperature swings, even when it is parked in the garage. Those temperature swings cause condensation to form inside your engine, leading to water contamination. Leaving a vehicle parked for extended periods or taking short trips that don’t allow the engine to fully warm up allow water to remain in the oil rather than evaporating and exiting through the tailpipe. Water can lead to formation of sludge.

Viscosity loss – A lubricant’s viscosity is its most important property. Viscosity has a direct bearing on wear protection, and your engine is designed to operate best using a motor oil of a specific viscosity (e.g. 5W-30). The intense pressure the oil bears as it’s squeezed between moving parts, like the piston ring/cylinder wall interface, can tear apart, or shear, its molecular structure, leading to viscosity loss. Suddenly, the 5W-30 motor oil your engine was designed to use is now essentially a 5W-20 oil, and wear protection may be compromised.

Fuel dilution – Fuel can wash past the piston rings and contaminate the motor oil, causing it to lose viscosity. Frequent short trips that don’t allow the oil to reach normal operating temperature can be especially problematic because the fuel won’t volatilize and exit through the PCV system. Excessive fuel dilution leads to sludge and varnish, requiring the oil to be changed more often.

Additive are designed to deplete

Additives are added to base oils to reduce destructive processes and enhance beneficial properties. For example, antioxidant additives help slow the rate of oxidation. Detergency additives help prevent deposits and sludge while cleaning pre-existing deposits. Anti-wear additives are added to some lubricants to form a sacrificial barrier on metal components and help prevent wear.

Since they’re sacrificial in nature, additive depletion is one of the primary reasons motor oil loses its effectiveness and must be changed.

Though all motor oils eventually deteriorate, synthetic oils last longer than conventional oils and deliver improved protection against wear and deposits. They’re formulated with base oils that are more resilient to oxidation and heat, while their additives also typically offer improved performance.

In fact, AMSOIL Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil performs so well you can go up to 25,000 miles/one year between oil changes (15,000 miles/one year in severe service) if you want, saving money.