Though your marine motor gets all the attention, your boat isn’t going anywhere without the lower unit. Its combination of gears, bearings and other components turn horsepower into movement. Lower units are resilient and can last for years – provided you service them annually. Here, we reveal the inner workings of a marine lower unit and show the common suffering points.
And call us for our new quart version of the gear lube in the EZ Packs (for 2022). Meets all 80W-90, SAE 80 and 75W-90 use. AMSOIL Marine Lower Unit Gear Lube covers them all.
If you’re anything like us, the highly anticipated sights and sounds of hot rods, muscle cars and restomods returning to the open road makes you a bit giddy. It’s a sure sign of road trips, car shows and all things summer.
In honor of the classic car re-emergence of the season, we put together a list of 8 AMSOIL products aimed at keeping those engines humming for decades to come. Hot rod owners spare no time or expense in maintaining their vehicle-babies, which is good for the rest of us because we look forward to seeing them age gracefully a bit more each year.
For those installing a new engine in their hot rod, consider starting off on the right foot with AMSOIL Break-In Oil. It’s formulated with zinc and phosphorus anti-wear additives to protect critical components during break-in periods when engine wear rates are highest. It doesn’t contain friction modifiers to allow for quick and efficient piston ring seating, an important aspect of the break-in process to ensure maximum power and engine longevity.
As they say, a new engine isn’t built in a day. Partially assembled engines can sit idle for weeks or months at a time. During this process, an engine assembly lube must be applied that will cling to parts and provide wear protection, inhibit rust corrosion and help prevent deposit formation. AMSOIL Engine Assembly Lube handles all of the above.
AMSOIL Z-ROD Synthetic Motor Oil was made for hot rods. It is engineered specifically for classic and high-performance vehicles to perform on the street and protect during storage. It features a high-zinc formulation that protects flat-tappet camshafts and critical engine components, along with a proprietary blend of rust and corrosion inhibitors for added protection during long-term storage. It’s available in both 10W-30 and 20W-50 viscosities.
AMSOIL Premium Protection Synthetic Motor Oil has been around for years and has earned a loyal following thanks to its excellent performance. Hot rod and classic car owners understand the importance of using a high-zinc oil. This product, available in 10W-40 and 20W-50 viscosities, stands as a flagship high-zinc lubricant. It delivers excellent protection for other high-pressure components, like bearings and pistons, to keep engines running peak.
Check out AMSOIL Technical Services Representative Ryan Lawrey’s vintage pickup:
Most hot rod owners are dedicated to keeping their vehicle’s appearance on par with its performance. For those who wouldn’t have it any other way, AMSOIL Miracle Wash is a must-have in the glove box or trunk. Simply spray and wipe off to lift dirt away from the surface instantly. It leaves vehicles with a super-shiny finish that protects against dust, light dirt and harmful ultraviolet rays.
When it’s time to prepare for storage at the end of the season, AMSOIL Gasoline Stabilizer is crucial to ensuring your ride is road-ready the following year. Gasoline can degrade in as little as 30 days. Treat your fuel tank prior to parking the vehicle for the winter to help prevent fuel degradation and poor engine performance when it’s time to start it up again in the spring.
In the olden days, vehicles were manufactured to run on leaded gasoline. As a result, classic and collector autos often require the use of a lead substitute to preserve the components that were designed for the fuel of days gone by.
AMSOIL DOMINATOR Octane Boost is excellent as a lead substitute in older vehicles. It increases octane up to four numbers, helping reduce engine knock and improve ignition while helping fuel burn more cleanly.
Any engine facing storage or lengthy inactivity should be treated with a good dose of Engine Fogging Oil first. Giving the cylinders a shot protects them from rust, corrosion and harmful dry starts when it comes time to fire up the car again the following year.
Speaking of next year, check out our stored vehicle tips before parking your hot rod or classic car at summer’s end. In the meantime, enjoy the open road with peace of mind that your engine and components are protected by products from a company that’s been making high-quality products since the days when hot rods were rolling off the assembly line.
Cooling-system issues account for nearly 40 percent of engine failures. Clearly, it pays to take care of your vehicle’s cooling system.
Sludge/slime are one of the common symptoms of larger problems. Left unchecked, it’ll plug the radiator, heater core or fluid passages, resulting in overheating and expensive repairs.
What causes sludge/slime and what can you do about it?
• Additives dropping out – coolant consists of a base (typically ethylene glycol or propylene glycol) mixed with additives and water. The base is primarily responsible for providing freeze and boil-over protection. The additives guard against corrosion, cavitation and scaling. Mixing of incompatible coolants can cause the additives to “drop out” of the solution and form sludge or slime.
• Contaminated coolant – a bad head gasket or cracked cylinder head can allow oil and coolant to mix, resulting in sludge. In vehicles with automatic transmissions, the engine-cooling system also cools the transmission. A breach in the system can contaminate coolant with transmission fluid.
• Corrosion – occurs when an imbalanced coolant chemically reacts with metallic surfaces, forming reddish deposits that can appear as sludge or slime.
Low-quality coolants can lead to cooling-system corrosion.
The only way to definitively identify what’s causing sludge/slime in your radiator is to perform fluid analysis. The report can identify oil, transmission fluid or other contaminants in the coolant. Fix any mechanical defects and flush the cooling system. Refill with a high-quality antifreeze/coolant.
What kind of coolant should I use?
Let’s start with what kind you should avoid.
You’re no doubt familiar with the conventional “green” coolants found at most retailers due to their low price. They contain inorganic salts, such as nitrites, phosphates and silicates.
Inorganic salts deplete quickly – typically in two years or less – and are on the environmental watch list. Once depleted, they are the source of common cooling-system problems, like scale deposits and sludge/slime.
Low-cost “green” coolants are the source of several problems, such as sludge/slime and scale deposits.
For these reasons, most vehicle manufacturers have moved away from inorganic salts for newer vehicles.
And so should you.
Instead, use a high-quality coolant that uses organic-acid technology (known as OATs). OATS coolants are much more robust and longer-lasting. They virtually eliminate drop-out, scaling and compatibility issues inherent to inorganic salts. This type of coolant can be used in a wide variety of applications, even mixing with other coolants as a top-off.
AMSOIL Antifreeze/Coolants
AMSOIL offers three coolants, all of which offer a unique blend of organic acids. We use di-acid technology, which means both ends of the organic acid are active. This makes them work faster and form stronger bonds for enhanced protection.
AMSOIL Heavy-Duty Antifreeze & Coolant is dialed in for the unique needs of on- and off-road heavy-duty applications. It is also premixed 50/50 with high-quality water.
Ok, I’m late posting this one but February is our busiest month for snowmobile oil as our customers venture out west betwixt now and the end of March. Some great snow to play in at the moment!
Avid riders are already getting their snowmobiles ready for winter. Soon it’ll be time to hit the trails or take to the mountains for the first ride of the season. Nothing ruins a ride more than a breakdown, so we put together some tips to help you get your snowmobile ready for winter.
Check the spark plugs
Inspect spark-plug and wire condition. Ski-Doo E-TEC engines require indexing if removed or replaced, so be sure to check your owner’s manual for proper instructions. They must be set facing the right direction and depth. Replace plugs that appear excessively dirty or worn along with any worn or frayed wires.
Inspect clutches and suspension
Check clutches, the drive belt and suspension for wear and tear. Greasing (everyone always forgets!) and inspecting the suspension components and slides (hyfax) are a great idea. Slides typically have a small line across them indicating when they are worn out. If they are below the line at all, replace them.
Items to check in the suspension include loose or worn parts and missing or loose idler wheels. Inspecting and cleaning the clutches and belt are also a necessary maintenance item. Remove any belt dust or rubber from the clutch sheaves.
Adjust track and check skis
Check your track for proper tension and make sure bolts are tight. Look for worn or missing lugs.
Don’t be that guy (or gal) who everyone has to bail out of trouble at every apex.
On the skis, look for any gouges, cuts or corrosion and make sure the runners are straight and still have carbide on them. The carbide edge allows the skis to bite into the trail and turn better.
Let there be light
Make sure your electrical system is up to par. Inspect the ignition and look for any warning lights that can signal problems. Check high/low-beam headlights and brake lights to ensure the bulbs haven’t burnt out.
Check the oil and filter
If you’re riding a four-stroke and didn’t do it last spring, change the oil and filter.
On two-strokes, make sure to top-off the oil reservoir and use an oil with excellent cold-flow properties for best protection. Inspect the exhaust power valves and clean them if needed. If your power valves are sticking, switch to a high-quality two-stroke oil proven to prevent power-valve sticking, like AMSOIL INTERCEPTOR Synthetic 2-Stroke Oil.
If you’re not sure which AMSOIL synthetic snowmobile oil is right for you, check out our handy Snowmobile Product Guide.
Inspect the fuel system
Check the fuel tank along with the fuel and oil lines for cracks or leaks. Unless you used a stabilizer such as AMSOIL Gasoline Stabilizer, empty the fuel tank and replace with fresh fuel. Clean your carburetor and make sure it’s adjusted properly to prevent performance issues or breakdowns. AMSOIL Power Foam is excellent for cleaning carbs.
Change the chaincase oil
It’s best to change chaincase oil annually, preferably in spring after riding season is over. Chains and gears create metal particles that need to be removed from the fluid regularly lest they build-up and cause bigger problems down the trail. We have just the oil for this important step: AMSOIL Synthetic Chaincase & Gear Oil.
If using a trailer, ensure everything is good to go. Before you load up, inspect the tires, bearings, hitch, safety chains, axle, springs, bed, cover, lights and electrical components.
Prepare for emergencies
Anything can happen, so be prepared. When getting your snowmobile ready for winter, it’s always a good idea to bring fire-starting materials, like a lighter, along with dry clothes, work gloves, water, an extra two strap, granola bars, lip balm and any other essentials you deem necessary to have on hand if you end up stranded.
What Happens to oil Making Me Needing to Change It?
Dan McClelland|
Regardless of its quality, every motor oil eventually loses its potency and must be changed to ensure peak engine protection. Let’s take a look at what happens to motor oil over time and why you periodically need to change oil.
Losing the base
Base oils are the backbone of the finished lubricant that ends up in your engine. Over time, they lose effectiveness due to the following factors:
Oxidation
The interaction between oxygen molecules and motor oil molecules naturally leads to chemical breakdown.
Just as oxygen causes a cut apple to brown or exposed metal to rust, it breaks down base oils and reduces motor oil’s effectiveness.
Oxidation can lead to increased oil viscosity, which negatively affects energy efficiency. It also causes the formation of harmful deposits and sludge.
High heat
Today’s engines run hotter than ever before, with temperatures up to 235°F (113ºC), and even higher if towing or hauling.
The rate of oxidation for oil doubles for every 18°F (10°C) increase in temperature.
Moisture
Your vehicle is subjected to temperature swings, even when it is parked in the garage.
Those temperature swings cause condensation to form inside your engine, leading to water contamination.
Leaving a vehicle parked for extended periods or taking short trips that don’t allow the engine to fully warm up allow water to remain in the oil rather than evaporating and exiting through the tailpipe. Water can lead to formation of sludge…yet another reason why you must change oil.
Viscosity is a motor oil’s most important property. The lower the viscosity, the faster the oils flows, like water. Thicker oils flow more slowly, like honey.
Viscosity has a direct bearing on wear protection, and your engine is designed to operate best using a motor oil of a specific viscosity (e.g. 5W-30).
The intense pressure the oil bears as it’s squeezed between moving parts, like the piston ring/cylinder wall interface, can tear apart, or shear, its molecular structure, leading to viscosity loss.
Suddenly, the 5W-30 motor oil your engine was designed to use is now essentially a 5W-20 oil, and wear protection may be compromised. When this happens, it’s time to change your oil.
Frequent short trips that don’t allow the oil to reach normal operating temperature can be especially problematic because the fuel won’t volatilize and exit through the PCV system.
Excessive fuel dilution leads to sludge and varnish, requiring you to change oil more frequently.
Additives: Additives are added to base oils to reduce destructive processes and enhance beneficial properties.
For example, antioxidant additives help slow the rate of oxidation. Detergency additives help prevent deposits and sludge while cleaning pre-existing deposits. Formulators add anti-wear additives to some lubricants to form a sacrificial barrier on metal components and help prevent wear.
Since they’re sacrificial in nature, additive depletion is one of the primary reasons motor oil loses its effectiveness and must be changed.
While AMSOIL synthetic motor oil gives you the convenience of fitting oil changes into your schedule, it remains vital to install fresh oil at the appropriate time.
