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What Causes Engine Oil Oxidation?

Written by Charleen
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The Dynamics of Engine Oil Oxidation

John Baker | Aug

You guessed it, the key ingredient to engine oxidation is oxygen.

Oxygen comprises about 20 percent of our atmosphere. It’s the third most common element in the universe. Without it we’d all be doomed.

And yet too much of it can cause problems inside your engine.

What is oxidation?

Oxidation occurs when the addition of oxygen changes a chemical substance. Take an apple, for example. Everyone knows that oxygen will quickly cause a cut apple to turn brown. Or metal. Oxygen can cause rust to form on some metals in a matter of days. Have you ever noticed your brakes grinding after having left your car sit for a couple days in wet weather? That sound is your brake pads scouring rust from the rotors. Never worry about that one as driving soon burns that off..

brake rotors oxidized from sitting or oxygn.

More wear on or in your engine occurs during storage. The oxidation discussed below can be detrimental. And that is not limited to the motor oil but the coolant system as well.

Motor oil isn’t immune to oxidation. As oil reacts with oxygen, a permanent chemical change occurs that causes oil molecules to lose one or more electrons. This can result in several problems, including…

  • Formation of sludge and deposits that reduce engine efficiency and increase the risk of engine failure
  • Increased oil viscosity, which reduces fuel efficiency
  • Additive depletion, reducing the oil’s effectiveness
  • Accelerated degradation, causing you to change oil more often

Heat accelerates oxidation

Every 18ºF (10ºC) increase in temperature doubles the rate of oxidation. That doesn’t bode well for motorists driving modern turbocharged vehicles that create increased heat compared to older vehicles. Or that Harley waiting in lines of traffic at events when block temps exceed 400F.

Heat isn’t the only oxidation accelerant – certain metals, acids and water can also hasten oxidation. So can large volumes of entrained air, known as foaming.

Can we prevent motor oil oxidation?

Unfortunately, no. Nature is a relentless force, and all motor oil will eventually oxidize to some degree. But we can dramatically slow oxidation through use of synthetic base oils and quality oxidation-inhibitor additives.

AMSOIL synthetic lubricants are formulated using base oils with a saturated molecular structure, meaning oxygen is prevented from attaching. This provides inherent heat and oxidation stability compared to unsaturated conventional oils.

And, because AMSOIL synthetic lubricants don’t contain contaminants like conventional oils, their base composition doesn’t accelerate oxidation.

AMSOIL synthetic lubricants also contain high-quality oxidation inhibitors. These additives are sacrificial in nature, meaning they’re designed to deplete over time. Because AMSOIL synthetic lubricants have inherently better oxidation resistance, their oxidation inhibitors last longer since they don’t deplete as rapidly.

When components and additives are selected for blending, cost is never a deciding factor thus our formulations will always result in the best of class. As AMSOIL does not have stock holders there are no outsiders to effect our decisions to always use the very best.

So, what does that mean to me?

That all adds up to a motor oil that…

  • Lasts longer despite intense heat and stress
  • Helps keep your engine cleaner and more efficient
  • Saves money in the long run through reduced maintenance
  • And as a bonus you enjoy added performance

So, while oxygen lets you breathe, AMSOIL synthetic motor oil lets you breath easy since your engine is protected against oxidation.

Maintenance, ,

Prep Your Vehicle Now for Your Summer Road Trip

Written by Charleen

August is the summer road trip month! Grease up! Get that car ready

Driving is part of the fun! Not the repairs and credit card charges. A summer road trip should bring good memories, not car trouble.

by Brad August 2024

Alright, lets get down to the nitty gritty!! Tools, spare parts and maybe some breaks figured in always works.

If you can see the top of Abe Lincoln’s head, your tread is worn and it’s time to replace the tires.

Start With The Tires

Check your tires for wear. Worn tread can lead to unsafe driving conditions.

In the U.S., tire tread depth is measured in 32nds of an inch. New tires typically come with 10/32” or 11/32” tread depths, with some truck, SUV and winter tires having more. The U.S. Department of Transportation recommends replacing tires when tread depth hits 2/32”. Checking if your tread meets the minimum depth is simple; all you need is a penny.

  1. Place a penny between the tread ribs of your tire with Abe Lincoln’s head pointing into the tread.
  2. If the top of his head disappears, your tread depth is still greater than 2/32”. If you can see his entire head, replace your tires before hitting the road.

Remember to test in various places around each tire, especially areas that appear worn. Replace your tires if any areas fail the penny test.

Uneven tread wear could be a sign of improper inflation, wheel misalignment or a variety of other things. If you see uneven tread wear, have a technician inspect your vehicle before you head out.

Check tire psi and ensure your valve stem caps are secure before embarking on a summer road trip. It’s also a good idea to check that the lug nuts are properly torqued. Find the proper foot-pounds in your owner’s manual.

One more thing – grab your front tires and give them a good shake. You may have a bad wheelbearing and this will be obvious. It’s something that we see more often go bad where they salt the streets. Worn bearings are dangerous but at the least will cause alignment issues and poor fuel economy.

And don’t forget the spare. Check for proper air pressure since tires tend to lose pressure as they sit unused.

Mind The Motor Oil – And AMSOIL saves time and fuel

Regular oil changes are critical for vehicle performance and longevity. Before you head far from home, make sure your motor oil can go the distance. Add the estimated miles you will be traveling on your trip to the miles the oil has already accumulated.

A high-quality synthetic is your best bet to protect your engine. And don’t forget to change your oil filter with your oil change.

Check The Antifreeze & Coolant

Your engine will get hot during a long trip, especially if you are driving through deserts or over mountain passes. Checking your antifreeze and coolant will help ensure that you don’t overheat and roll to a stop along a remote highway.

Begin by locating the coolant reservoir under the hood near the front or side of the engine. It’s usually transparent with a line near the bottom labelled “cold” and a line near the top labelled “hot.” With the engine cold, remove the reservoir cap and check if the level has dipped below the “cold” line. If so, the mixture is too low.

To avoid serious injury, make sure the engine is cool before opening the reservoir cap. If the engine is still hot, pressurized liquid can spray out of the radiator.

Low coolant is usually the result of a leak. As your vehicle’s hoses, gaskets and seals age, they can become brittle and leak. A leak needs to be found and fixed as soon as possible. Every time you pop the hood make it a habit to glance down at that coolant level.

If you don’t know which type of antifreeze and engine coolant to use, check your owner’s manual or use the AMSOIL Product Guide.

If you see sludge in the fluid, you should have the system flushed and upgrade to a quality antifreeze and coolant.

Ensure The Transmission Fluid Is In Good Shape (Try AMSOIL OE for the budget minded)

Transmission fluid is often overlooked. In fact, many modern vehicles are equipped with “filled-for-life” transmissions, implying the fluid never needs to be checked or changed. But that’s dangerously misleading.

In truth, it’s a good idea to change fluids in a filled-for-life or sealed transmission or differential at least once during the lifetime of your vehicle, and more often if you tow or haul. Therefore, if you will have a camper in tow, it’s an especially good idea to check your transmission fluid before leaving the driveway.

You can always suck out a few quarts from the dipstick tube if the car has one and replace with fresh. Just a 5 quart swap is significant.

Power steering reservoir

Power Steering Fluid

Old power steering fluid needs to be addressed. Your seals rely on fresh non-oxidized hydraulic fluid. Use our vehicle matching guide to make sure you get the right one.

Vehicle Look-up: Match AMSOIL Products to your model

 

Checking power steering fluid is a simple task that anyone can do. Yet, it’s often overlooked until the signs of low fluid emerge, such as whining or squealing pump noise and hard steering at low speeds.

Power steering fluid is essential to lubricate and cool the pump. Therefore, driving with low fluid could burn up the pump, causing difficult steering and even a loss of control.

To check your fluid, start by finding the power steering fluid reservoir. Its location differs from vehicle to vehicle, but it’s usually a small, clear container with a black cap. Many vehicles have marks on the outside of the reservoir to indicate “MAX” or “MIN.” Other vehicles use a dipstick to check power steering fluid. In either case, make sure the fluid is at the optimal level.

If it’s been a while (like, never) and the fluid appears dark and dirty, go ahead and change it.

Service The Brakes

The other reservoir you need to watch often! That fluid does expire. Moisture absorbed causes all sorts of issues.

If you notice even a slight amount of sponginess, grinding or delayed brake reaction, it’s time to change your pads, bleed the system and maybe even install new rotors. Schedule brake service with a mechanic if you’re uncomfortable doing the work yourself.

In addition, brake fluid can go bad. Brake fluid absorbs moisture, which reduces its performance.

A vehicle using fresh brake fluid should deliver solid brake-pedal feel, like you’re pressing down on a brick. Think of the last time you drove a new car. The brakes likely inspired confidence and felt rock-solid. That’s because the entire system was brand new and moisture had yet to infiltrate the fluid.

It’s a good idea to change your brake fluid at least every two years, or when you change brake pads, and be mindful of the amount of time you expose the product to the environment.

Don’t cheap out on your brakes – use a quality fluid. For example, AMSOIL DOT 3 & DOT 4 Synthetic Brake Fluid is packaged with nitrogen, which prevents moisture contamination natural to the packaging process. Additionally, it is engineered with high boiling points to exceed the minimum standards, which translates into solid, confident braking.

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Check The Belts, Hoses & Fuses

While you’re under the hood, check all the hoses around the radiator for cracks or damage. Check the serpentine belt, too. I just had a pulley go out on me.

An inexpensive fuse tester identifies bad fuses so you can easily tell which need replacing. It never hurts to throw some extras in your glovebox, either.

Test The Battery

When’s the last time you changed your battery? Batteries typically last two to five years, and they often give little-to-no warning before they lose their juice. Many auto parts stores offer free battery testing, so you can gauge whether you’re due for a replacement before you hit the road. I always carry a volt meter in my tool bag. May help you trace out a simple problem.

Make Sure You Can See (& Others Can See You)

Check your headlights, brake lights and turn signals. Throw some spare bulbs in with your stash of fuses in case you need one along the way. When’s the last time you inspected your tiol-lights?

Fill up your windshield washer fluid reservoir and change the wiper blades if they work like crap. Good visibility is a key safety feature, not to mention an imperative for catching any sights along the way. Fresh blades are worth the cost.

Pack A Roadside Emergency Kit

Sometimes all the preparation in the world is still not enough. In case you break down, make sure you have some tools and safety equipment along. Pack a flashlight, tow rope, portable battery charger, bungee cords, screw drivers, wrenches and roadside emergency reflectors.

Boost Your Fuel Economy

Gas prices always seem to increase just in time for your summer road trip. One thing you can do to maximize fuel economy is clean your fuel system with a quality fuel additive.

Don’t forget the mass air flow sensor. I cleaned one the other day on my Buick and gained back 2 MPG and the 1000 RPM idle went down to the normal level!

For example, AMSOIL P.i.® Performance Improver cleans injector deposits, valves and the combustion chamber. It works in just one tank of gasoline.

Or my new favorite – Upper Cylinder Lube! Read the reviews. This added to every other tank makes a HUGE difference! Crazy mileage improvements and a quiet engine. It lubricates the moving parts in your engine which oil can’t reach.

Upper Cylinder Lubricant

Summer Road Trip Adventure Ahead

With your vehicle in prime condition, you’ll be ready to pursue your summer road trip adventures with confidence.

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Mechanicals 101 – What is Antilock Brakes and How Does ABS Work

Written by Charleen

What Exactly is Antilock Brakes in a Car?

ABS stands for Antilock Braking System (antilock brakes). This system prevents your brakes from locking up, providing better control while braking.

Wet twisty hazardous road with Prius

Tire selection also matters greatly!

by Mr. Nelson | January 27, 2022

Antilock Braking System Overview

ABS brakes do what the name implies – they keep your brakes from locking up while braking. Why? Because once tires start to skid, vehicle control is lost. Therefore, Antilock brakes can help you to maintain more control of your vehicle, particularly while braking and turning or swerving at the same time. In normal driving conditions, ABS systems can also help you stop in a shorter distance, but not 100% of the time. There are situations where you will want to deactivate ABS.

There are four statistical benefits of having ABS:

  • Cars fitted with ABS are less likely to be involved in a fatal crash.
  • ABS decreases the chance of front-end collision on wet and dry roads.
  • Cars with ABS maintain more control while braking – especially through turns, swerves or in variable conditions.
  • During an emergency stop, a car with ABS tends to stop in a shorter distance than a vehicle without ABS.
Re-installing brake rotors and pads

A technician services ABS brakes.
If your ABS light stays on, something isn’t working in the system. Make the safe choice to have a technician fix the problem immediately.

How Do ABS Brakes Work?

ABS uses sensors attached to the hub of each wheel that detect if a wheel is spinning or not, which tells the system the wheel is starting to lock up. As that happens, a modulator slightly releases the brake pad pressure on that particular wheel, allowing it to continue rolling.

Modern ABS systems are linked to the vehicle’s onboard computer and have become increasingly responsive and effective. These systems don’t just keep wheels from locking up during braking, they also alter the front-to-rear brake bias and can prevent losing control under a oversteer situation. Depending on specific capabilities, this latter system is known as electronic brake distribution, traction control system, emergency brake assist or even electronic stability control (ESC).

Drivetrain under unbody illustration.

ABS monitors the brake on each wheel. If it detects a wheel is locking up, it releases that brake slightly to prevent skidding.

Does ABS Improve Safety?

Absolutely! We all know decades before ABS was available it wasn’t uncommon to hear a car with locked brakes skidding out of control. Anti-lock reduced this saving untold lives and property. Locking up brakes was never beneficial but we had to wait for the technology.

This is true on most, but especially on slick roads. But Icy roads when you are in low speed situations in freezing conditions ABS can cause you to slip more. More on that later.

Second, a wheel can only turn a car if it’s rolling. Once the tires begin to skid, the vehicle will continue to travel in a straight line regardless of how the wheels are turned. This is a recipe for an accident, especially when a driver needs to swerve to avoid another vehicle or object. If the tires continue to roll, the driver can keep maneuvering the vehicle, even while braking hard.

Antilock Brakes can also be a huge safety feature on roads with variable conditions. For example, if you’re driving on a road with patches of black ice and you apply the brakes, tires touching dry pavement may grip while tires on ice may begin to slide. This can create a yaw torque throughout the entire vehicle that can put you into a spin.

But if you have proper snow (winter) tires on and you notice at intersections the ABS seems to make you launch further than you intended try disabling it. One issue I have read other say the same thing backing this up is snow tires do need more delay to dig in. With ABS especially on less sophisticated systems, the oscillations may actually cause the skid on the ice to slide further.  I have tested this out on both Ford and Volkswagens from 2005-2016. The wiping action of the snow/ice tires seems to want to dig in more.. Test it in a parking lot and you’ll see!

Modern ABS with electronic stability control will help immensely in this scenario. With ESC, the yaw rate of the car and relative slip of each wheel is measured. Adjustments are made by reducing brake pressure slightly on wheels that have the most grip to reduce yaw torque and maintain vehicle control.

Instead, much like a sled, friction between the tires and the road is reduced once the tires begin to slide. Therefore, tires hold the road best when they are rolling.

How Effective Are Antilock Brakes?

ABS brakes are highly effective, but they do have some limitations. In fact, a highly skilled driver can outperform ABS in some driving conditions, such as loose gravel or snow.

That’s because with ABS the brakes are rapidly engaging and disengaging. On very soft or slippery surfaces, the tires simply go from sliding, to rolling, to sliding and back again. Therefore, a driver who practices threshold braking, applying the brakes as much as possible without allowing the tires to slide, can outperform ABS in these conditions. However, threshold braking takes practice and feel to achieve, especially in a panic situation.

And when you’re driving in winter, always allow yourself a lot of extra time to stop.

It’s worth noting, even on snowy or icy roads, antilock brakes can at times improve control while braking hard assuming it’s got a good amount of weight on the tires. Lighter cars may find that ABS should be disabled..  Please research “Will ABS help me in ICE or shoudl I disable?” more on this topic especially via forums!

You can work around most antilock brakes shortcomings by following a simple rule: the softer the surface, the softer you brake. Brake hard on pavement, brake gently on snow or ice.

How Do I Know if My Car Has ABS?

ABS has been a standard feature since 2012, so you probably have it. You can check by looking for an ABS light at startup in the gauge cluster. The ABS light will come on while the system is checked and then turn off. If you don’t see it there, you can always check your owner’s manual to make sure.

Fuel and engine temp gauges showing check engine light. Watch for Antilock brakes waring (ABS) to test the system at startup..

The ABS light will come on while the system is checked and then turn off.

What if My ABS Light Stays On?

The ABS light should come on briefly when you start your car, then turn off. If the light stays on, that means something isn’t working in the system. Common antilock brake problems include low brake fluid and ABS or ECU sensors.

If you’re driving when the light comes on you can continue to your destination with caution. The hydraulic portion of the brakes will (and MUST) work without this passive system. However, get it checked out when you can if it’s not a beater. It’s the safe choice and some insurance policies will deny accident payouts if they establish the ABS system was inoperable at the time of the crash. (That’s why I drive cars that are past being worth anything. Saves a lot of money but that’s another topic – I know people like to have shiny things).

If the brake-warning light also comes on, don’t risk losing your brakes completely. Stop immediately and call for roadside assistance.

Antilock Brakes History

Like all technologies, ABS brakes have become more sophisticated and effective over time. Interestingly, the concept for ABS brakes has been around for more than a century. Here is a brief timeline of their development.

1908: J.E. Francis invents a “Slip Prevention Regulator for Rail Vehicles.”

1920: French automobile and aviation pioneer Gabriel Voisin experiments with systems to modulate hydraulic braking pressure on his aircraft brakes.

1958: Road Research Laboratory tests the Maxaret anti-lock brake system on the Royal Enfield Super Meteor motorcycle. Although stopping distances were reduced in most tests, it was not put into production.

1966: Jensen Motors releases the Jensen FF, the world’s first car with a fully mechanical ABS system and all-wheel drive. Shortly after, Ford introduces an experimental Zodiac with mechanical ABS, but the system proved too expensive and ineffective for production.

1969: A fully electronic anti-lock braking system is developed for the Concorde airplane.

1971: Mario Palazzetti of the Fiat Research Center develops “Antiskid,” the first modern ABS system for automobiles. The patent was sold to Bosch who renamed it ABS.

1970s: antilock brakes remain an uncommon feature for most mass-market cars. Robert Bosch acquires patents and begins a joint development venture with Mercedes-Benz. Many of the era’s advancements debuted on Mercedes-Benz cars.

1980s: BMW leads ABS development for motorcycles like the K100.

2012: Electronic stability control, which includes ABS and traction control, are required on all vehicles although many had it 10 or more years prior. My 2002 Mini Cooper had it and did help!

ABS – Can you Dig It?

ABS keeps your brakes from locking up while braking. In so doing, the system decreases the number of fatal crashes and front-end collisions on wet and dry roads. Cars with ABS maintain more control while braking, especially through turns, swerves or on variable conditions. And, especially during a panicked situation, ABS usually helps drivers stop in a shorter distance. ABS is an automobile technology that makes us all safer on the roads, and we can all be grateful for that.

Bleed Brake Fluid that Lasts Longer?

Amsoil’s various fluid choices are synthetic so they tend to handle heat and moisture better. However, we do not recommend extended drain intervals on brake fluid. Lasting longer means it will perform better as the typical abuse adds up which is what you want!! So get 3 or 4 bottles of AMSOIL DOT 3 & 4 and flush you brakes.

And while you’re at it get our hard to find Brake Parts Cleaner (hard to find a true chlorinated version in the parts stores these days – not for sale in California) It’s actually very low cost!

 

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MUSCLE CAR MANIA: Chevy* Power

Written by Charleen

MUSCLE CAR MANIA: Chevy* Power

We look under the hood at classic Chevy muscle car engines and the products to protect them.

_by Brad Nelson|March 1, 2024

The glory days of the muscle-car era were fueled by a war between American automakers for stoplight-to-stoplight power and speed. The victors were speed demons who craved increasingly powerful engines that were stuffed into sleek small and midsized sedans. These large-displacement engines offered thunderous excitement with rubber-shredding horsepower. Eventually, stricter emissions, oil embargoes and skyrocketing insurance premiums brought the golden age of American muscle to an end, but legends never die. In this edition of Muscle Car Mania, we delve into a few of the mythical Chevrolet* muscle-car engines that were too good to forget.

SMALL BLOCK

In the early 1950s, the hot-rod community shrugged Chevy off with its reliable, but underwhelming, Stovebolt Six* engines. But everything changed in the fall of 1954 with the launch of the groundbreaking small-block V8. Once speed enthusiasts discovered this lightweight, compact powerhouse, it outshined the flathead Ford* as the star of the strip. The first-generation small-block Chevy V8 has had an impact like no other eight-cylinder engine in history due to its simplicity and compact power. These engines were easy to work on, with opportunities to upgrade components. The first-generation small blocks offered variants that approached 400 horsepower by the early 1970s. Affordable and easy to find, the original small block remains the most popular high-performance classic-car engine in the world.

265 V8

In 1955 and ’56, the 265 small-block V8 powered over half of all new Chevys. The engine came in three configurations: the 162-hp two-barrel, the 180-hp Power Pack* with four-barrel and dual exhaust and the coveted 195-hp Super Power Pack* with a solid-lifter Duntov* cam, higher-compression pistons and free-flowing dual exhaust. Over the next couple years, the 265 added dual four barrels and fuel injection to put out 283 horses in 1957, 327 hp in 1962 and 350 hp in 1966. Horsepower ratings reached up to 375 in the Corvette.* In all, over 1.5 million 265-powered Chevrolets were sold.

283 V8

The 238 V8 powered vehicles from 1957 to 1967. It was incredibly versatile, but classic-car enthusiasts remember it as the first production engine that could produce one horsepower per cubic inch of displacement using a Duntov camshaft and Ramjet* fuel injection. Enthusiasts upped the ante by boring the cylinder walls for up to 301 cubes. In the ’60s, enthusiasts started adding larger intake valve heads and dual carbs, or an aluminum high-rise four-barrel Carter* AFB or Holley* intake.

L65 327 V8

From 1958 through 1964, Chevy bored and stroked the 283 to 327 cubic inches. The highest factory rating for the 327 in 1964 and ’65 was 375 hp in Corvettes with Ramjet fuel injection. The power curve was 2,700 to 7,200 rpm. Some 327s were equipped with a new 750- cfm, dual-inlet Holley 3310 carb for even more power.

348 V8

The 348 V8 was originally designed for heavy-duty trucks, but to enhance performance, Chevy added more

compression, a high-lift camshaft and tri-power induction. The production model was a torque beast capable of making over 300 horsepower to about 5,500 rpm. The 348 frequently put Chevy in the winners circle in 1960 and ’61.

409 V8

“Giddy up, giddy up, 409,” sang the Beach Boys in their hit song “409” about a “four-speed, dual-quad, posi-traction 409.” In 1961, the famous 348 was taken to another level with a high-performance variant known as the 409, a bored and stroked 348 with larger head ports and valves. Despite heavy pistons, the 409 was the engine to beat in everything except NASCAR* races, where the weighty pistons hammered away at reliability. But almost all top professional drag racers ran and won with a 409 in 1962 and ’63.

L78 396

In 1965, two Turbo Jet* 396 big-block engines replaced the 409, one of which was the factory-rated 425 hp RPO L78, a high-performance engine with rectangle-port heads, 11.0:1 compression and an aluminum high-rise intake manifold with an 800 cfm Holley carb. The L78 was put into Corvettes for an extra cost of $292.70. At the time, the L78 396 provided the highest acceleration and top speed of any production engine Chevrolet ever produced.

L72 427

The L72 427 V8 was first put into 1966 Corvettes, and later into the massive full-size passenger cars of the era. The engine was marketed at 450 hp for 1966 models, but later reduced to 425 hp, ostensibly to reduce insurance rates for would-be owners. Regardless, the L72 427 was a winner on all fronts and became the foundation for all Chevrolet solid-lifter big-block engines through 1969. Muscle cars using the L72 include the Chevelle,* Nova* and Camaro.*

427 L88

The 1967-1969 production 427 L88 race engine was marketed at only 430 hp at 5,200 rpm, but at 7,400 rpm, the 12.5:1-compression, mega-cam, rectangle-port 427 could churn out 550 hp. Only available in the Corvette, this engine put out so much heat that it was very difficult to keep cool, but it could slay other engines in street races.

454 BIG-BLOCK V8

The Chevy 454 big-block V8 was the right engine at the wrong time. GM* introduced the 454 in 1970, one year before emission standards were tightened and three years before the gas crisis hit. It was unfortunate timing for the mighty V8 designed for performance cars, including the Chevelle and Corvette, but the 454 made an indelible mark nonetheless. With high compression, solid-lifter camshaft, huge valve lift and massive 800 cfm Holley carburetor, output was listed at 450 hp and 500 lb-ft of torque, which was more than enough to shred tires at the drop of a hat.

PROTECT YOUR CHEVY POWER

If you’re lucky enough to have your foot on the accelerator of a legendary Chevy V8, protection is priority. Here’s a list of AMSOIL products to help keep your classic muscle car ripping far into the future.

AMSOIL Assembly Lube

Engine Assembly Lube

As they say, a great engine isn’t built in a day. Partially assembled engines can sit idle for weeks or months at a time. During this process, an engine-assembly lube must be applied that will cling to parts and provide wear protection, inhibit rust and help prevent deposit formation. AMSOIL Engine Assembly Lube handles all of the above.

AMSOIL Break-In Oil

Break-In Oil (SAE 30)

Freshly rebuilt engines should start off with AMSOIL Break-In Oil. It’s formulated with zinc and phosphorus anti-wear additives to protect critical components during the break-in period when engine wear rates are highest. It doesn’t contain friction modifiers to allow for quick and efficient piston-ring seating, an important aspect of the break-in process to ensure maximum power and engine longevity.

AMSOIL Z-ROD® Synthetic Motor Oil

AMSOIL Z-ROD® is engineered specifically for classic and high-performance vehicles to perform on the street and protect during storage. It features a high-zinc formulation that protects flat-tappet camshafts and critical engine components, along with a proprietary blend of rust and corrosion inhibitors for added protection during long-term storage. It’s available in 10W-30, 10W-40 and 20W-50 viscosities.

AMSOIL Miracle Wash® Waterless Wash and Wax Spray

Wash your car with only this can and a towl

AMSOIL Miracle Wash is a must-have for owners dedicated to keeping their vehicle’s appearance on par with its performance. Simply spray and wipe off to lift dirt away from the surface instantly. It leaves vehicles with a super-shiny finish that protects against dust, light dirt and harmful ultraviolet rays.

AMSOIL DOMINATOR® Octane Boost

DOMINATOR® Octane Boost

Early V8 models were designed to use leaded gasoline. As a result, classic and collector autos often require the use of a lead substitute to preserve the components that were designed for the fuel of days gone by. AMSOIL DOMINATOR Octane Boost is excellent as a lead substitute in older vehicles. It increases octane up to four points, helping reduce engine knock and improving ignition while helping fuel burn more cleanly.

AMSOIL Gasoline Stabilizer

When it’s time to put her away at the end of the season, AMSOIL Gasoline Stabilizer is crucial to ensuring your ride is road-ready in spring. Gasoline can degrade in as few as 30 days. Treat your fuel tank prior to parking the vehicle for the winter to help prevent fuel degradation and poor engine performance when it’s time to fire it back up.

AMSOIL Engine Fogging Oil

Engine Fogging Oil

Any engine facing storage or lengthy inactivity should be treated with a good dose of AMSOIL Engine Fogging Oil first. Giving the cylinders a shot of oil protects them from rust, corrosion and harmful dry starts when it comes time to fire up your hot rod or classic car the following season.

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*All trademarked names and images are the property of their respective owners and may be registered marks in some countries. No affiliation or endorsement claim, express or implied, is made by their use.

 

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