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Mechanicals 101 – What is Antilock Brakes and How Does ABS Work

What Exactly is Antilock Brakes in a Car?

ABS stands for Antilock Braking System (antilock brakes). This system prevents your brakes from locking up, providing better control while braking.

Wet twisty hazardous road with Prius

Tire selection also matters greatly!

by Mr. Nelson | January 27, 2022

Antilock Braking System Overview

ABS brakes do what the name implies – they keep your brakes from locking up while braking. Why? Because once tires start to skid, vehicle control is lost. Therefore, Antilock brakes can help you to maintain more control of your vehicle, particularly while braking and turning or swerving at the same time. In normal driving conditions, ABS systems can also help you stop in a shorter distance, but not 100% of the time. There are situations where you will want to deactivate ABS.

There are four statistical benefits of having ABS:

  • Cars fitted with ABS are less likely to be involved in a fatal crash.
  • ABS decreases the chance of front-end collision on wet and dry roads.
  • Cars with ABS maintain more control while braking – especially through turns, swerves or in variable conditions.
  • During an emergency stop, a car with ABS tends to stop in a shorter distance than a vehicle without ABS.
Re-installing brake rotors and pads

A technician services ABS brakes.
If your ABS light stays on, something isn’t working in the system. Make the safe choice to have a technician fix the problem immediately.

How Do ABS Brakes Work?

ABS uses sensors attached to the hub of each wheel that detect if a wheel is spinning or not, which tells the system the wheel is starting to lock up. As that happens, a modulator slightly releases the brake pad pressure on that particular wheel, allowing it to continue rolling.

Modern ABS systems are linked to the vehicle’s onboard computer and have become increasingly responsive and effective. These systems don’t just keep wheels from locking up during braking, they also alter the front-to-rear brake bias and can prevent losing control under a oversteer situation. Depending on specific capabilities, this latter system is known as electronic brake distribution, traction control system, emergency brake assist or even electronic stability control (ESC).

Drivetrain under unbody illustration.

ABS monitors the brake on each wheel. If it detects a wheel is locking up, it releases that brake slightly to prevent skidding.

Does ABS Improve Safety?

Absolutely! We all know decades before ABS was available it wasn’t uncommon to hear a car with locked brakes skidding out of control. Anti-lock reduced this saving untold lives and property. Locking up brakes was never beneficial but we had to wait for the technology.

This is true on most, but especially on slick roads. But Icy roads when you are in low speed situations in freezing conditions ABS can cause you to slip more. More on that later.

Second, a wheel can only turn a car if it’s rolling. Once the tires begin to skid, the vehicle will continue to travel in a straight line regardless of how the wheels are turned. This is a recipe for an accident, especially when a driver needs to swerve to avoid another vehicle or object. If the tires continue to roll, the driver can keep maneuvering the vehicle, even while braking hard.

Antilock Brakes can also be a huge safety feature on roads with variable conditions. For example, if you’re driving on a road with patches of black ice and you apply the brakes, tires touching dry pavement may grip while tires on ice may begin to slide. This can create a yaw torque throughout the entire vehicle that can put you into a spin.

But if you have proper snow (winter) tires on and you notice at intersections the ABS seems to make you launch further than you intended try disabling it. One issue I have read other say the same thing backing this up is snow tires do need more delay to dig in. With ABS especially on less sophisticated systems, the oscillations may actually cause the skid on the ice to slide further.  I have tested this out on both Ford and Volkswagens from 2005-2016. The wiping action of the snow/ice tires seems to want to dig in more.. Test it in a parking lot and you’ll see!

Modern ABS with electronic stability control will help immensely in this scenario. With ESC, the yaw rate of the car and relative slip of each wheel is measured. Adjustments are made by reducing brake pressure slightly on wheels that have the most grip to reduce yaw torque and maintain vehicle control.

Instead, much like a sled, friction between the tires and the road is reduced once the tires begin to slide. Therefore, tires hold the road best when they are rolling.

How Effective Are Antilock Brakes?

ABS brakes are highly effective, but they do have some limitations. In fact, a highly skilled driver can outperform ABS in some driving conditions, such as loose gravel or snow.

That’s because with ABS the brakes are rapidly engaging and disengaging. On very soft or slippery surfaces, the tires simply go from sliding, to rolling, to sliding and back again. Therefore, a driver who practices threshold braking, applying the brakes as much as possible without allowing the tires to slide, can outperform ABS in these conditions. However, threshold braking takes practice and feel to achieve, especially in a panic situation.

And when you’re driving in winter, always allow yourself a lot of extra time to stop.

It’s worth noting, even on snowy or icy roads, antilock brakes can at times improve control while braking hard assuming it’s got a good amount of weight on the tires. Lighter cars may find that ABS should be disabled..  Please research “Will ABS help me in ICE or shoudl I disable?” more on this topic especially via forums!

You can work around most antilock brakes shortcomings by following a simple rule: the softer the surface, the softer you brake. Brake hard on pavement, brake gently on snow or ice.

How Do I Know if My Car Has ABS?

ABS has been a standard feature since 2012, so you probably have it. You can check by looking for an ABS light at startup in the gauge cluster. The ABS light will come on while the system is checked and then turn off. If you don’t see it there, you can always check your owner’s manual to make sure.

Fuel and engine temp gauges showing check engine light. Watch for Antilock brakes waring (ABS) to test the system at startup..

The ABS light will come on while the system is checked and then turn off.

What if My ABS Light Stays On?

The ABS light should come on briefly when you start your car, then turn off. If the light stays on, that means something isn’t working in the system. Common antilock brake problems include low brake fluid and ABS or ECU sensors.

If you’re driving when the light comes on you can continue to your destination with caution. The hydraulic portion of the brakes will (and MUST) work without this passive system. However, get it checked out when you can if it’s not a beater. It’s the safe choice and some insurance policies will deny accident payouts if they establish the ABS system was inoperable at the time of the crash. (That’s why I drive cars that are past being worth anything. Saves a lot of money but that’s another topic – I know people like to have shiny things).

If the brake-warning light also comes on, don’t risk losing your brakes completely. Stop immediately and call for roadside assistance.

Antilock Brakes History

Like all technologies, ABS brakes have become more sophisticated and effective over time. Interestingly, the concept for ABS brakes has been around for more than a century. Here is a brief timeline of their development.

1908: J.E. Francis invents a “Slip Prevention Regulator for Rail Vehicles.”

1920: French automobile and aviation pioneer Gabriel Voisin experiments with systems to modulate hydraulic braking pressure on his aircraft brakes.

1958: Road Research Laboratory tests the Maxaret anti-lock brake system on the Royal Enfield Super Meteor motorcycle. Although stopping distances were reduced in most tests, it was not put into production.

1966: Jensen Motors releases the Jensen FF, the world’s first car with a fully mechanical ABS system and all-wheel drive. Shortly after, Ford introduces an experimental Zodiac with mechanical ABS, but the system proved too expensive and ineffective for production.

1969: A fully electronic anti-lock braking system is developed for the Concorde airplane.

1971: Mario Palazzetti of the Fiat Research Center develops “Antiskid,” the first modern ABS system for automobiles. The patent was sold to Bosch who renamed it ABS.

1970s: antilock brakes remain an uncommon feature for most mass-market cars. Robert Bosch acquires patents and begins a joint development venture with Mercedes-Benz. Many of the era’s advancements debuted on Mercedes-Benz cars.

1980s: BMW leads ABS development for motorcycles like the K100.

2012: Electronic stability control, which includes ABS and traction control, are required on all vehicles although many had it 10 or more years prior. My 2002 Mini Cooper had it and did help!

ABS – Can you Dig It?

ABS keeps your brakes from locking up while braking. In so doing, the system decreases the number of fatal crashes and front-end collisions on wet and dry roads. Cars with ABS maintain more control while braking, especially through turns, swerves or on variable conditions. And, especially during a panicked situation, ABS usually helps drivers stop in a shorter distance. ABS is an automobile technology that makes us all safer on the roads, and we can all be grateful for that.

Bleed Brake Fluid that Lasts Longer?

Amsoil’s various fluid choices are synthetic so they tend to handle heat and moisture better. However, we do not recommend extended drain intervals on brake fluid. Lasting longer means it will perform better as the typical abuse adds up which is what you want!! So get 3 or 4 bottles of AMSOIL DOT 3 & 4 and flush you brakes.

And while you’re at it get our hard to find Brake Parts Cleaner (hard to find a true chlorinated version in the parts stores these days – not for sale in California) It’s actually very low cost!




We look under the hood at classic Chevy muscle car engines and the products to protect them.

_by Brad Nelson|March 1, 2024

The glory days of the muscle-car era were fueled by a war between American automakers for stoplight-to-stoplight power and speed. The victors were speed demons who craved increasingly powerful engines that were stuffed into sleek small and midsized sedans. These large-displacement engines offered thunderous excitement with rubber-shredding horsepower. Eventually, stricter emissions, oil embargoes and skyrocketing insurance premiums brought the golden age of American muscle to an end, but legends never die. In this edition of Muscle Car Mania, we delve into a few of the mythical Chevrolet* muscle-car engines that were too good to forget.


In the early 1950s, the hot-rod community shrugged Chevy off with its reliable, but underwhelming, Stovebolt Six* engines. But everything changed in the fall of 1954 with the launch of the groundbreaking small-block V8. Once speed enthusiasts discovered this lightweight, compact powerhouse, it outshined the flathead Ford* as the star of the strip. The first-generation small-block Chevy V8 has had an impact like no other eight-cylinder engine in history due to its simplicity and compact power. These engines were easy to work on, with opportunities to upgrade components. The first-generation small blocks offered variants that approached 400 horsepower by the early 1970s. Affordable and easy to find, the original small block remains the most popular high-performance classic-car engine in the world.

265 V8

In 1955 and ’56, the 265 small-block V8 powered over half of all new Chevys. The engine came in three configurations: the 162-hp two-barrel, the 180-hp Power Pack* with four-barrel and dual exhaust and the coveted 195-hp Super Power Pack* with a solid-lifter Duntov* cam, higher-compression pistons and free-flowing dual exhaust. Over the next couple years, the 265 added dual four barrels and fuel injection to put out 283 horses in 1957, 327 hp in 1962 and 350 hp in 1966. Horsepower ratings reached up to 375 in the Corvette.* In all, over 1.5 million 265-powered Chevrolets were sold.

283 V8

The 238 V8 powered vehicles from 1957 to 1967. It was incredibly versatile, but classic-car enthusiasts remember it as the first production engine that could produce one horsepower per cubic inch of displacement using a Duntov camshaft and Ramjet* fuel injection. Enthusiasts upped the ante by boring the cylinder walls for up to 301 cubes. In the ’60s, enthusiasts started adding larger intake valve heads and dual carbs, or an aluminum high-rise four-barrel Carter* AFB or Holley* intake.

L65 327 V8

From 1958 through 1964, Chevy bored and stroked the 283 to 327 cubic inches. The highest factory rating for the 327 in 1964 and ’65 was 375 hp in Corvettes with Ramjet fuel injection. The power curve was 2,700 to 7,200 rpm. Some 327s were equipped with a new 750- cfm, dual-inlet Holley 3310 carb for even more power.

348 V8

The 348 V8 was originally designed for heavy-duty trucks, but to enhance performance, Chevy added more

compression, a high-lift camshaft and tri-power induction. The production model was a torque beast capable of making over 300 horsepower to about 5,500 rpm. The 348 frequently put Chevy in the winners circle in 1960 and ’61.

409 V8

“Giddy up, giddy up, 409,” sang the Beach Boys in their hit song “409” about a “four-speed, dual-quad, posi-traction 409.” In 1961, the famous 348 was taken to another level with a high-performance variant known as the 409, a bored and stroked 348 with larger head ports and valves. Despite heavy pistons, the 409 was the engine to beat in everything except NASCAR* races, where the weighty pistons hammered away at reliability. But almost all top professional drag racers ran and won with a 409 in 1962 and ’63.

L78 396

In 1965, two Turbo Jet* 396 big-block engines replaced the 409, one of which was the factory-rated 425 hp RPO L78, a high-performance engine with rectangle-port heads, 11.0:1 compression and an aluminum high-rise intake manifold with an 800 cfm Holley carb. The L78 was put into Corvettes for an extra cost of $292.70. At the time, the L78 396 provided the highest acceleration and top speed of any production engine Chevrolet ever produced.

L72 427

The L72 427 V8 was first put into 1966 Corvettes, and later into the massive full-size passenger cars of the era. The engine was marketed at 450 hp for 1966 models, but later reduced to 425 hp, ostensibly to reduce insurance rates for would-be owners. Regardless, the L72 427 was a winner on all fronts and became the foundation for all Chevrolet solid-lifter big-block engines through 1969. Muscle cars using the L72 include the Chevelle,* Nova* and Camaro.*

427 L88

The 1967-1969 production 427 L88 race engine was marketed at only 430 hp at 5,200 rpm, but at 7,400 rpm, the 12.5:1-compression, mega-cam, rectangle-port 427 could churn out 550 hp. Only available in the Corvette, this engine put out so much heat that it was very difficult to keep cool, but it could slay other engines in street races.


The Chevy 454 big-block V8 was the right engine at the wrong time. GM* introduced the 454 in 1970, one year before emission standards were tightened and three years before the gas crisis hit. It was unfortunate timing for the mighty V8 designed for performance cars, including the Chevelle and Corvette, but the 454 made an indelible mark nonetheless. With high compression, solid-lifter camshaft, huge valve lift and massive 800 cfm Holley carburetor, output was listed at 450 hp and 500 lb-ft of torque, which was more than enough to shred tires at the drop of a hat.


If you’re lucky enough to have your foot on the accelerator of a legendary Chevy V8, protection is priority. Here’s a list of AMSOIL products to help keep your classic muscle car ripping far into the future.

AMSOIL Assembly Lube

As they say, a great engine isn’t built in a day. Partially assembled engines can sit idle for weeks or months at a time. During this process, an engine-assembly lube must be applied that will cling to parts and provide wear protection, inhibit rust and help prevent deposit formation. AMSOIL Engine Assembly Lube handles all of the above.

AMSOIL Break-In Oil

Break-In Oil (SAE 30)

Freshly rebuilt engines should start off with AMSOIL Break-In Oil. It’s formulated with zinc and phosphorus anti-wear additives to protect critical components during the break-in period when engine wear rates are highest. It doesn’t contain friction modifiers to allow for quick and efficient piston-ring seating, an important aspect of the break-in process to ensure maximum power and engine longevity.

AMSOIL Z-ROD® Synthetic Motor Oil

AMSOIL Z-ROD® is engineered specifically for classic and high-performance vehicles to perform on the street and protect during storage. It features a high-zinc formulation that protects flat-tappet camshafts and critical engine components, along with a proprietary blend of rust and corrosion inhibitors for added protection during long-term storage. It’s available in 10W-30, 10W-40 and 20W-50 viscosities.

AMSOIL Miracle Wash® Waterless Wash and Wax Spray

AMSOIL Miracle Wash is a must-have for owners dedicated to keeping their vehicle’s appearance on par with its performance. Simply spray and wipe off to lift dirt away from the surface instantly. It leaves vehicles with a super-shiny finish that protects against dust, light dirt and harmful ultraviolet rays.


DOMINATOR® Octane Boost

Early V8 models were designed to use leaded gasoline. As a result, classic and collector autos often require the use of a lead substitute to preserve the components that were designed for the fuel of days gone by. AMSOIL DOMINATOR Octane Boost is excellent as a lead substitute in older vehicles. It increases octane up to four points, helping reduce engine knock and improving ignition while helping fuel burn more cleanly.

AMSOIL Gasoline Stabilizer

When it’s time to put her away at the end of the season, AMSOIL Gasoline Stabilizer is crucial to ensuring your ride is road-ready in spring. Gasoline can degrade in as few as 30 days. Treat your fuel tank prior to parking the vehicle for the winter to help prevent fuel degradation and poor engine performance when it’s time to fire it back up.

AMSOIL Engine Fogging Oil

Engine Fogging Oil

Any engine facing storage or lengthy inactivity should be treated with a good dose of AMSOIL Engine Fogging Oil first. Giving the cylinders a shot of oil protects them from rust, corrosion and harmful dry starts when it comes time to fire up your hot rod or classic car the following season.


*All trademarked names and images are the property of their respective owners and may be registered marks in some countries. No affiliation or endorsement claim, express or implied, is made by their use.


Team AMSOIL Takes on 2024 King of the Hammers

Team AMSOIL Takes on 2024 King of the Hammers

Brad Lovell crushes the King of Hammers in his Bronco race truck.

_by Lindsay Tousignant|January 26, 2024

Bragging rights and a case of beer

Each year, tens of thousands of hardcore spectators and nearly 1,000 competitors flood Johnson Valley to create the city affectionately known as “Hammertown.” Its off-grid location emulates “Mad Max,” setting the stage for what seems like pure chaos, with some racing sprinkled in.

King of the Hammers includes racing throughout an entire week, with the mack daddy of them all, the Nitto Race of Kings, taking place Saturday, Feb. 3. A race known for its carnage and chaos, only about 15% of racers who take the start finish the race.

The event was conceived by a pair of racers in search of bragging rights and a case of beer. It combines desert racing and rock crawling throughout 200 miles of grueling trails. It’s no wonder almost 80,000 people flood this otherwise deserted valley to witness the havoc.

Win and earn the title of King. Lose and the walk of shame could be your vehicle lifted out of the desert by helicopter (trust us).

Let’s take a look at where Team AMSOIL is competing this year.

A force to be reckoned with

Kyle Chaney has been called a “surgeon” when it comes to navigating the rocks. The three-time King of the Hammers UTV champ took the lead early in last year’s race and finished at a ferocious pace, crushing all lap time expectations — in a stock UTV. This year he seeks his fourth crown aboard Can-Am’s new Maverick R, a recently released model that generated a lot of buzz this past fall.

Chaney gave us a breakdown of the custom 4400 Can-Am that he raced in last year’s Race of Kings. He worked his way into the top ten before losing his transmission at Chocolate Thunder.


Runs in the family

Brad Lovell looks to keep his legendary streak alive by competing in the Every Man Challenge. Having already won the Every Man crown a total of three times, and the 4800 class 4 times, this will be Lovell’s 19th trip to the lakebed.

Historically, Brad had his brother Roger co-driving, but for this year’s Every Man Challenge, Brad’s son Adam will co-pilot for his first King of the Hammers race in their newly wrapped Bronco. The duo will also take to the start line of the Desert Challenge. Trading places, Adam will take the wheel and Brad will navigate.

Last year, Brad and his brother Roger showed us their 4600 Ford Bronco. The brothers finished second in their class last season, and fifth overall.


King of the Hammers 2024 Event Schedule

Here’s a breakdown of where you can find Team AMSOIL next week:

  • Saturday, Jan.27 & Sunday, Jan. 28 is opening weekend, with the Toyo Desert Challenge presented by Monster. Adam Lovell will get his first taste of what it’s like to race at King of the Hammers, with his dad by his side as his co-driver.
  • Thursday, Feb. 1 Bryce Menzies will also be competing alongside Chaney in the UTV Championship. Menzies led lap one of last year’s race before Chaney took the lead.
  • Friday, Feb. 2 is the Every Man Challenge with Brad and Adam Lovell aboard their newly wrapped Ford Bonco.
  • Saturday, Feb. 3 is the big race — Nitto Race of Kings. Two-time champ Erik Miller and three-time champ Shannon Campbell will line up with Chaney at the start.

Be sure to follow AMSOIL for daily updates and behind-the-scenes action from the lakebed, and don’t forget to tune in to the livestream on race day.

We’ll see you in Hammertown!


How to Read a Gear Oil Viscosity Chart

How to Read a Gear Oil Viscosity Chart

Save this chart for your own use. As an AMSOIL dealer I  use it several times weekly to show customers how things like a 20W-50 motor oil (motorcycle oil) can be also used as a gear lube.. Also how ranges of one oil is significant as a 90WT for differentials..

This comparative viscosity chart can help determine if two or more lubricants have similar viscosities.

by Joel Youngman|January 6, 2024

Viscosity, defined as a fluid’s resistance to flow, is one of the most important characteristics of a lubricant. Some of the informal terms used to describe the viscosity of a relatively free-flowing fluid, such as water, include thin, light and low. Terms such as thick, heavy or high suggest a fluid with strong resistance to flow, such as honey. However, these terms are general and difficult to measure.

More specific classifications give us a better idea of how fluids move, but you’ve likely seen at least a few different ways to designate viscosity:

Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) grades for automotive motor oils (e.g. SAE 5W-30)

Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) grades for automotive gear oils (e.g. SAE 75W-90)

American Gear Manufacturers Association (AGMA) grades for industrial gear lubricants (e.g. AGMA 5)

International Standards Organization (ISO) grades for hydraulic fluids and industrial gear lubricants. Established to represent a universally accepted grading system (e.g. ISO 100)

Comparative Gear Oil Viscosity Chart

Considering there are multiple standards (that use different scales) for designating viscosity, a comparative viscosity chart can help determine if two or more lubricants have similar viscosities. But how do you read a gear oil viscosity chart?

Just read it horizontally. For example, an SAE 60 motor oil has a similar viscosity to an SAE 90 gear oil, an AGMA 6 gear lubricant and an ISO 320 hydraulic fluid/gear lubricant. The corresponding kinematic viscosity and Saybolt viscosity are also referenced on the chart.

Kinematic Viscosity

Commonly seen on a lubricant’s data sheet, kinematic viscosity describes a fluid’s visible tendency to flow. Think of this as the time it takes to watch a fluid pour out of a container.

This tendency to flow is expressed in units suggesting the volume of flow over time, called centistokes (cSt). Kinematic viscosity is usually tested at both 40°C and 100°C.

Saybolt Viscosity

Although centistokes are the most common unit of measurement when determining kinematic viscosity, results may also be reported in Saybolt Universal Seconds (SUS). Viscosity reported in SUS is becoming increasingly rare, but you may still come across it when reading lubricant product information. Saybolt viscosity is usually tested at both 100°F and 210°F.

What’s the Best Oil for My Snowblower?

What’s the Best Oil for My Snowblower?

Using a high-quality, purpose-built oil can provide extra protection for your snowblower’s engine.

_by Brad Nelson|November 10, 2023

When a snowstorm hits, you need your snowblower to fire up and help you get the job done. But snowblower engines face unique challenges that can reduce their dependability, horsepower and longevity. Fortunately, there are maintenance practices that can vastly improve reliability, including using a specially engineered small-engine oil.

Using a high-quality, purpose-built small-engine oil can help improve the reliability and performance of your snowblower.

Tough on Oil

Although snowblower engines are used less frequently than other engines, they’re tougher on oil than most people realize.

Compared to liquid-cooled automotive engines, small engines usually lack oil filters, run hotter, operate under constant heavy load, generate more oil-damaging contaminants and are exposed to snow, water and extreme temperatures.

Snowblower engines are often stored in unheated garages or sheds where cold temperatures cause the oil to flow slower at startup, a key driver of engine wear.

Using a high-quality, purpose-built oil can provide extra protection for your snowblower’s engine, reducing the risk of component damage and prolonging its life.

However, most small-engine oils we’ve tested are nothing more than re-labeled automotive oils, which are formulated in large part to enhance fuel economy, not to survive the brutal operating conditions of a snowblower engine.

Although small engines are often used infrequently, they’re tougher on oil than most people realize.

Purpose-Built Protection

AMSOIL 100% Synthetic Small-Engine Oil isn’t a re-packaged automotive oil. We specially engineered it from the ground up for small-engine dependability. It’s built to solve the problems that plague small engines, including wear, power loss, oil consumption, harmful carbon deposits and stuck rings and valves.

Excellent Wear Protection

AMSOIL Synthetic Small-Engine Oil is a shear-stable, high-film-strength formulation fortified with a heavy dose of anti-wear additives. It does not thin out due to mechanical shear, ensuring a thick lubricating film. It forms a durable barrier that protects against metal-to-metal contact.


Formulated for Power

Engine wear, carbon deposits, valve sticking and piston-ring sticking reduce engine power. AMSOIL Synthetic Small-Engine Oil prevents ring and valve sticking while helping eliminate carbon deposits from forming. As a result, engines produce maximum power throughout their service lives, helping you move more snow faster.

Extreme-Temperature Performance

AMSOIL 100% Synthetic Small-Engine Oil is formulated with a saturated molecular structure that offers outstanding extreme-heat resistance.

In addition, we’ve fortified the oil with potent antioxidant additives that provide further resistance to damaging heat.

Its powerful detergent additives fight carbon, varnish and sludge to maximize engine life.

In extreme cold, the oil’s naturally high viscosity index and lack of paraffins (waxes) ensure it remains fluid and flows quickly, providing easier cold-weather starts and fast startup lubrication for reduced wear.

Reduces Oil Consumption

In lab testing, AMSOIL 10W-30 Synthetic Small-Engine Oil reduced oil consumption 61% compared to three leading 10W-30/SAE 30 motor oils.¹

Its heat-resistant synthetic base oils provide low volatility, excellent viscosity stability and strong oxidation resistance.

Engines run longer between top-offs, providing peace of mind your engine won’t fail due to oil starvation and will run dependably.

Let it Snow

Prepare your snowblower engine for the next big storm with a specially engineered small-engine oil. AMSOIL 100% Synthetic Small-Engine Oil provides extra protection for your snowblower engine so you can throw snow like its no big deal all winter long.

¹Based on 125-hour lab tests of small engines using AMSOIL 10W-30 Synthetic Small-Engine Oil and three leading 10W-30/SAE 30 motor oils.